Image for GenNext dominates Da

MUMBAI, With muted shades the norm on day 2 of the Lakme Fashion Week Summer Resort 2010, the occasional splashes of colour really stood out. Designer Sabah Khan’s bright patchwork skirts and shirts had digital images of women and girls from Dharavi superimposed on the backs. Sabah, a final-year graduation
student at International Institute of Fashion Design says the use of vivid colours was deliberate, inspired by the optimism in the face of enormous difficulties that these women portrayed. “The collection is meant to celebrate their spirit of joy,” she said. Sabah’s collection was part of the GenNext show at the LFW, chronicling eight student designers, mentored by designer Narendra Kumar Ahmed.
Other GenNext designers whose collections made an impact were Swagat Paul and Sandeep Sarkar. Sandeep’s palette of whites, yellows and greens, use of fabrics like linen and chanderi and subtle embroidery drawing on motifs from nature. In contrast to the simpler designs on show, Swagat’s patterns were elaborately constructed. Inspiration, he said, came from everyday things. “The weave of a basket, a cable knit sweater — all these are patterns that I wanted to bring out through my designs,” he said.
Little Shilpa, Shilpa Chavan’s line of accessories was well received, as always, by the audience. Helmet-like headgear with colourful perspex visors and feathers, mantle-like accessories for the shoulders and oversized coloured bangles created an ancient warrior-like look. Indeed, Shilpa says that is the very effect she was aiming for. “The designs are all about life in technicolour and tribals moving into cities. The use of perspex, bright colours is supposed to signify that,” said the designer.
But for the jaded post-lunch audience, an instant boost came in the form of Abdul Halder’s trousseau collection. Fitted purple jackets for women, with diamante-embellished sleeves, sheer saris with velvet borders and velvet floral cut-outs attested to the designer’s love for pure fabrics and construction. Abdul, who began his career by designing a costume for Michael Jackson in 2002, was clear that the point of his designs was their commercial viability. “I make things which I think will sell, here in India and for my NRI customers as well,” said Abdul.
There’s no summer resort without beachwear and duo ShrivanNarresh’s collection was about embracing the female form. “Each woman has a specific body type. Rather than alter your body to suit a swimsuit, the swimsuit should suit your body type,” said Shrivan.
 

ROHINI NAIR