Helsinki is a city that changes its garb with each season. Come spring and the Finns are ready to leap into the season with Vappo (May Day) celebrations. Spring sees the mushrooming of outdoor cafes, but it’s the summer that heralds a festive mood and the Finns live for their summers.

The season brings bright, sun-filled days and a few hours of blue nights. It also brings out the all-consuming holiday spirit and the outdoor summer bars (terrassit, as the locals call them). The cafés in the city get packed with ecstatic citizens.
We began our city tour from the South Harbour where scores of orange umbrellas of the outdoor market, the Kauppatori, warmed our eyes. The stalls spilled out across the cobbled quayside, their wares attracting discerning eyes. The stalls under the bright umbrellas had some of the most delectable loimulohi (smoked salmon, cooked over an open fire). The covered market in Helsinki has stood on the banks of the city’s South Harbour since the 1800s, its stalls passed down the generations by the owners like priceless heirlooms.
The dazzling golden domes of Orthodox Uspenskin Katedraali, one of the biggest cathedrals in Europe, juxtaposed against the blue background, towered above the harbour invitingly. The golden cupolas and red-brick facades symbolise the Russian influence on Helsinki history. The Senate Square is the heart of Helsinki and a popular tourist spot. Ringed by beautiful and important buildings, the square is a triumphant showcase of designer Carl Ludvig Engel’s architectural skills. On one side is the Prime Minister’s office, on the other, the National Library and on yet another, the University of Helsinki. With the Cathedral poised against a bright blue sky on one end and the statue of Emperor Alexander II adorning the centre, the square is a place where concerts are held on many enchanting evenings. At the moment the square was abuzz with tourists even though the mid-day sun blazed fiercely above.
At the Temppeliaukio Church we stood gaping at the structure, carved out of the natural bedrock. The sun shining from above illuminates the stunning interiors with its birch pews and cavernous walls.
The monument to Sibelius, a tribute to Finland’s best loved composer, is a work of modern art. With its umpteen silver tubes that evoke the pipes of an organ, the monument stands close to the picturesque stretch of shoreline fringed by a park. Squawking seagulls flew overhead as we made our way across the park. A dog toilet, with a queue of dogs and owners, attracted our attention. A friendly Finn told us that the dogs learn to wait till their turn comes. “It is a great meeting point for the dogs as well as their owners,” he said with a smile, the sun glinting in his blond hair. There are exclusive beaches for pet dogs where they can sunbathe and swim.
It was past lunchtime when we made our way back to the harbour. Hordes of hungry people were making a beeline for the Market Square, where excellent food is served. Kappeli with its beautiful summer terrace and excellent view is the perfect place for some gastronomic indulgence.

The writer is a travel enthusiast