While driving down a desolate highway in North of India, on a cold winter’s evening, there are few sights as welcoming as that of a dhaba with rustic fragrances wafting out of it. Dhaba food, over the years, has evolved into a genre of its own with many restaurants in metros across India proclaiming to serve authentic dhaba food.

Paya Masaledar

The paya is a typical winter evening fare as it is rich and fortifying. It is also the easiest broth to make and the only thing one needs to remember is to get the butcher to properly clean the payas and not to stint with the ingredients.

Ingredients
12 mutton payas, well cleaned
2 medium onions, thinly sliced
2 tomatoes, chopped
4 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
2 tsp coriander powder
1 tsp cumin powder
2 tsp turmeric powder
2 tsp chilli powder
4 green chillies, slit lengthwise
1 tsp garam masala powder
1 cup chopped coriander leaves, plus extra for garnish
Salt to taste
Juice of 1 lemon
Oil as required
Method
Wash the payas thoroughly. Heat water in a deep pan and boil the payas for 10 minutes. Remove and drain, reserving the liquid.
Heat 3 tablespoons of oil and fry the onions till they are soft, add the tomatoes and fry for 3 minutes. Add ginger-garlic paste and fry till the oil separates. Add the turmeric, chilli, coriander and cumin powder with ½ cup of water and cook till the water completely evaporates. Add the payas, the green coriander and slit green chillies. Add the reserved stock and bring the broth to a boil. Add salt and taste the seasoning. Cover and cook on low heat for 30 to 40 minutes. Remove lid, add garam masala and lime juice and cook for another 3-4 minutes. Sprinkle coriander leaves on top as garnish and serve with hot rotis and onion salad.
Masala Chholey

This is another great dhaba favourite ordered by vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike. Due to its dry nature, it is ideal with bhaturas (type of puris made of refined flour) but is equally good with normal puris or rotis. The interesting part of this recipe is that it uses tea bags to get the right colour.

Ingredients
1 cup kabuli chana, washed, soaked overnight and pressure cooked with salt and 2 tea bags (reserve ½ cup of liquid)
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 ½ tsp cumin seeds
3 green chillies, split
2 tsp ginger-garlic paste
2 tsp coriander powder
1 ½ tsp cumin powder
2 tsp red chilli powder
1 tsp aamchur powder
1 tsp garam masala powder
2 tbsp coriander leaves, finely chopped
Oil as required

Method
Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a heavy-bottomed pan and add the cumin seeds. Fry for 10 seconds and add the onions. Fry till golden. Add the ginger-garlic paste, lower the heat and cook for another 3 minutes. Add the cumin powder, coriander powder, red chilli powder and aamchur powder along with 3 tablespoons of water and cook till the water dries up. Add the kabuli chana with the reserved liquid (1/4 cup if you want it dry, more if you want a bit of gravy), chillies and the garam masala powder and cook for a couple of minutes till the chanas are thoroughly coated with the masala. Add a pinch of salt and check the seasoning.
Sprinkle with coriander leaves and chopped onions and serve immediately with puris or rotis.