It had a whiff of Benaras, a dash of history, a slice of Star Trek and a whole lot of excitement associated with Indian weddings. The first collection “Happily Ever After” of the second day at the PCJ Delhi Couture Week at the Taj Palace hotel, by Monisha Jaising, who is known as the creator of kurti, celebrated the bond of love and the concept of destination weddings.
As the show started, a topless male model, flaunting black trunks and holding a huge embellished umbrella, escorted Tamara, in a bright red Benarasi brocade off-shoulder gown, to the ramp where the two exchanged amorous glances to their audiences’ delight.
Jaising has been in the business for over two decades and no show of hers is complete without kurtis. So she sent out models in mulmul kurtis, (yes in a couture show) Baroque crop jackets and jaali jewelled leggings. There were jackets with zardosi elements on panels, brocade jackets, prince sherwanis and even an ankle-length Louis XV jacket with Baroque details.
What made her designs different from the usual bridal stuff was the intelligent and restricted placement of adornments. So the lehengas here were not over-the-top, but were crafted using light, breezy jersey and came in colours like fuschia, coral, blush, mint green, lime green and used zardosi, chains, crystals, French as well as handmade lace. Embellished armour-like patterns and shoulder covers added drama to these twisted, draped lehengas.
Her peplum gowns, dresses and short skirts with Star Trek detailing stood out, whereas it was her black crepe gown cut in panels with a peek-a-boo effect that got applause from designers Rohit Bal and Varul Bahl, who sat in the front row.
Although Miss Universe Canada 2012 Sahar Biniaz appeared on the ramp in an interesting gown, it was the unexpected and bejewelled “Maharani Bathrobe” that closed the show for Jaising.

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Couture in the lap of nature
What is common between designer Anamika Khanna’s last as well as this year’s collection? The venue. If Evoluzione, The Kila, opened its doors the last time for Anamika’s off-site show, this time The Leela Palace welcomed the designer as well as the guests for this “select audience extravaganza”. As the show started post the unnecessary red tape, we spotted actor Neena Gupta and her designer daughter Masaba marvelling at the forest-like set and the enchanting sounds of chirping birds.
The collection was a mixed bag consisting of well-crafted garments and jewel pieces paired using remarkable styling details. The interesting headgear and extensive use of Indian fabrics and motifs made up for the delay.
“The gold mohawk-like pieces were used as maang-tikas to give power to the overall look,” she said.
One also got to see interesting pairings of contrasting colours, silhouettes in capes, saris, pants, dresses, gharara-style lowers, high collared embroidered ponchos and crop tops in shades of purple, scarlet, grey, indigo and tangerine.
Nature prints were used to create floor-length jackets, which bore dense embroidery starting from high thigh till ankle. She also used dupattas in a way that they worked as capes, drape dresses paired with loose lowers.
The well-choreographed show didn’t need a showstopper as it ended on a high note.

— NS