Lake quartet
This summer book yourself a train to Kathgodam or strap on your seat belt and get set for a six-hour drive from Delhi that will take you to the mesmerising tals (lakes) of India.
Kathgodam is your last train connection and from here mountain roads lead to Nanital, Bhimtal, Sattal and Naukuchiyatal. A 35 km ride into the mountains will bring you to Nainital, the lake city situated in the Kumaon hills of the outer Himalayas. Nainital was discovered in 1841 by a British sugar trader, Mr Barron. A case of love at first sight for the site, Barron went on to build the first colonial cottage, the Pilgrim Lodge.
Another reminder of the days of the Raj is the charming colonial cottage called the Gurney House, which was home to Jim Corbett. It still stands amongst the rhododendrons with its original grand piano and furniture intact. Situated at 1938 metres amongst verdant mountains, crystal clear lake waters and wooded expanses interspersed with oaks and cypress, Nainital became a popular destination with the colonial officers for it had much to offer in both natural beauty and colourful social activities.
Theaters staging musicals added to the 19th century charm and the Nainital sailing club with its wooded club house on the edge of the lake waters became the fashion focal point. Barron himself had his yacht carried up in the summer of 1840. The town was later developed as a health resort for British troops and other colonial officials. Surrounded by lofty peaks and coniferous forests, lies the natural fresh water lake of Nainital.
As per legend it was known as Tri-rishi-sarovar, meaning the lake of 3 sages. In daytime it is a fun-filled tourist destination with facilities for boating, yachting and paddling. By night it takes on an ethereal aura as the lights on the banks light up like a million stars, and in these magical moments, somewhere far away, you can hear the goatherds’ flute play the pahadi raagas (mountain melodies).
A major highlight here is the Naina Devi temple, originally constructed in the 15th century. It is said to mark the spot where the Goddess Parvati’s eye dropped on earth. Next is the Naina peak, situated 6 km from the city that offers a 360 degree view of the snow-clad Himalayan peaks. The snow peak is accessible by a ropeway and at a height of 2,270 metres offers a breathtaking view.
What’s next is Hanuman Garhi where you can offer prayers. This is known for its beautiful sunsets. Here you can watch the sun come gliding down the spectacular orange skies. St. John’s Church, Astronomical Observatory and Raj Bhawan are amongst the must-see list.
For those who love to shop, Mall road, the popular shopping hub is famous for selling woolens hand-knit by the women of Almora, wooden crafts, cane sticks and colourful candles. A wide variety of squashes, jams and juices are available here.
Now head 28 km to Naukuchiatal, a unique nine cornered lake surrounded by dense oak forests. According to local legend if you can see all the nine corners in one glance you attain nirvana. Angling, trekking, bird watching, paragliding are other fun options.
At a distance of about 23 km from Nainital is Sattal, an unforgettable spot with a cluster of lakes amidst the oak forest. Sattal is home to migratory birds from across the globe.
Next is Bhimtal named after the legendry Bhim of the Mahabharata is a must visit, with its small island in the centre of the tranquil lake. The rhododendrons paint the hillside red, the mist and clouds create mysteries, the Himalayan cedar, horse chestnuts sway and smile as the Himalyan breezes waft down with heavenly fragrances creating magical moments all the way!
The writer is an avid traveller
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