Let Purani Dilli be!
The Walled City is a world in itself. It’s a little pocket of dusty lanes, beautiful havelis, kebab corners, attar shops, latticed windows... As the Commonwealth Games committee spruces up the capital, die-hard lovers of Old Delhi earnestly hope that a modern makeover does not dent the old world charm of this corner of the city where time drags its feet, and the past nestles in the present.
Young foreigners who live in the city and love this historic place say the Walled City is a relic of a grand era, and must be prized and preserved. They believe its unique charm of bustling chaos and weathered grandeur will enchant tourists who come for the CWG.
Writer Pamela Timms from UK writes on Old Delhi food. For her this part of the city completes the image the world has of India. “When foreigners land at the airport, they are eager to see the chaotic and mystical India which no longer exists. But Old Delhi mirrors the image they have of India. It gives an impression that lives of people here haven’t changed over the years,” she says.
Photographer Simon de Troy-White from UK, often finds himself wandering in the narrow bylines around Jama Masjid. “Most tourists come from a very organised system. It’s the chaos and confusion of this place that fascinates them.”
Simon finds beauty in dangling wires and a criss-crossed skyline. He even finds the maddening traffic jams “interesting” and is charmed by the hustle-bustle. “Cows stroll amidst the busy traffic and the jam they cause is a sight to watch. The old city has been photographed extensively, so I often go with a small camera but don’t click for commercial purposes,” he says.
Pamela feels the Walled City has in many ways guarded its culture. “Like the art of making and fixing things. It doesn’t exist in Europe, so tourists love to see it happen here,” she says.
French ambassador to India Jerome Bonnafont has been in the city for the past three years, and confesses his love for Old Delhi. “I regularly take out time to go there. The rustic charm of the place is fascinating. It takes you straight back 200 years in history. I believe that every big city has a modern and historic face. That’s what we have in Paris. Such places are a great attraction for tourists. Having said that, economic betterment is definitely needed for the Walled City,” he says.
American anthropologist Tucker Foltz’s association with the city is three months old. After reading City of Djinns by William Dalrymple, he felt an urge to visit Old Delhi and now goes there often. “Now I find myself immersed in the ancient houses that beckon you with mysterious charm. There is a romantic feel to the way this part of the city moves,” says Tucker, adding that he might plan to stay back in India.
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