An artist’s unfulfilled longing for chai and bun maska
Next Saturday, it will be M.F. Husain’s first death anniversary. Gallerists and artists will no doubt commemorate the memory of the pre-eminent artist, who passed away at the age of 95, in London. His last years were spent in self-imposed exile, because of the countless number of court cases filed against him for some of his paintings, which were claimed to be religiously objectionable.
For close to half a decade, the artist did not return to his Cuffe Parade residence in Mumbai because, as he put it, “I will be arrested as soon as I land on Indian soil. At my age, I cannot imagine spending even an hour in prison. It would be much too humiliating.”
Consequently, he became a Qatar citizen, but remained restless, flying between London-New York and Dubai to meet his family, friends and gallerists.
To be sure, he will be remembered by the art fraternity on June 9. And also by the restaurants, which he frequented regularly. The Taj’s Golden Dragon was among his favourite lunch haunts, when he felt like splurging — which was very often. Or else it would be the hotel’s Sea Lounge where he was partial to bhel puri, followed by ice cream topped with cocoa powder.
But nothing quite measured up to the Irani restaurants on his daily beat. After an early morning walk, he would land up at Kyani’s in Dhobi Talao for chai and bun maska. In fact, in the course of one of his last interviews, the artist had said, “If I ever return home — from this so-called exile — I’ll head straight to Kyani’s. Mumbai has so many restaurants with flavoured teas and fancy sandwiches. Still nothing compares to Kyani’s. There is a sense of belonging there, as if I was sitting in my own home.”
Not many know that Husain was quite a foodie. In London, he would dine at Nobu’s At Royal China, he maintained an account, which he would settle monthly. Shepherd’s pie from a typical English pub was a must, over weekends. And he would saunter barefoot into the swishy Dorchester Hotel lobby for high tea, no questions asked. The management would at times include a complimentary carry-bag of brownies for the artist along with the cheque.
And he’d say, “That’s a sweet gesture. I like the tea here – it’s neither too strong nor too weak – but Kyani’s is much better. They would give me a complimentary bag too…of khaari biscuits.”
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