Classic, subtle, yet futuristic on Day 1
The futuristic and classic, structured and the fluid, subtle and heavily embellished — all found a place on the ramp on day one of the Lakme India Fashion Week winter/festive season. The day started with a bang, as fog machines and green lasers cut across a dark ramp, providing an ideal setting for the GenNext show — where six newbie designers, mentored by Wendell Rodericks, presented their lines, variously inspired by architecture, the media and the ‘80s.
First up were twins Riddhi and Siddhi Mapxencar whose beautifully structured dresses in tones of grey, red and blue had quirky details like sling purses sewn onto pleated shoulder capes. The men swear line by Fazal and Akanksha and Ruchika Sachdev’s collection drew heavily on the fusion between machines and the human form, featuring LEDs sown into clothing, designs reminiscent of microchips and 3D accents. Then it was an all-black collection of minis for Jelin Geroge, with traditional mirror work embroidery.
The day took a turn for the organic once the afternoon shows began. Bengali designers Abhishek Dutta and Soumitra showed collections that contrasted starkly with Abhishek’s near-exclusive focus on off-white and Soumitra’s preference for rustic, earthy hues of red, orange and brown. Abhishek’s creations included a fitted sherwani-style jacket for men with frothy Edwardian ruffles running down the front, and jackets with Chinese collars in velvet. Menswear with a difference also made a brief appearance in Soumitra’s line, with fitted pants with swirling patterns in turquoise and orange on brown, worn with simple shirts. Also making an impact were his batik shawls draped chaddar-style with lehengas. Soumitra said his line was as much about popularising khadi, as it was about “being proud of who you are and where you come from.” The late afternoon shows by Digvijay Singh and Asmita Marwa once again shifted gears, inducing as they did a very relaxed mood. Digvijay Singh’s Bhu:sattva line showcased dresses with asymmetrical side panels in shades of grey, black and off-white. Pleats and quilting on the shoulders and cuffs were used to extremely good effect, with show stopper Nandana Sen making for a very pretty picture indeed. But it was Asmita Marwa’s collection that really broke away from the winter/festive mould. Chequered bikinis and pajamas played peek-a-boo with fringed white dresses, while a white sari with a scalloped orange pallu drew collective gasps from the audience. “My market is here in Mumbai and in the south and our climate requires more of resort wear. It’s only in places like Delhi that there is a demand for jackets and things,” said Asmita. But for other designers, the winter/festive theme has proved a boon. Krishna Mehta’s evening show featured bright, embellished lehengas, dresses and sherwanis in fabrics like mul.
Mallika Sherawat, in a strappy yellow dress, caused quite a sensation prior to the Anita Dongre show. The shutterbugs got into a stampede in a quest to get the best shots of Sherawat.
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