The heavy Bollywood presence during the latter half of Day 1 of the Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai gave way to a quieter Saturday morning, heralding the start of Day 2 of the fashion extravaganza. The mood and the collections were low key, but not any less striking for it. The day began with a vibrant, many-hued line by Komal Sood, who put paintbrush to fabric to create her Holi-inspired collection.

Then, the inspiration shifted to the legendary traveller Ibn Batuta with Pia Pauro’s peppy creations. Finishing with a dramatic gold sheath worn by showstopper Tara Sharma, Pia set the tone for the next show — accessory designer Suhani Pittie’s. As models glided out in stark, off-white handloom outfits, Suhani’s gold and bronze accessories provided their only adornment. And what fine adornment it was! From motifs of vines, flowers and leaves, Suhani’s creations brought her theme of the Garden of Eden alive.
Bidri prints and filigree made their present felt through her bangles, cuffs, neck pieces and even hairbands. Next up was Payal Khandwala, who kept Suhani’s stark tone, albeit contrasted with deep jewel colours, in her debut LFW collection. Titled “Play”, Pay-al’s line was clean, impeccably finished and minimal in appearance, with wide trousers, skirts and tunic tops in solid shades of red, green, blue and off-white, all held together with wide belts. Payal, a popular face on Mum-bai’s art circuit, seemed to have the crowd on her side, and explaining the shift to fashion design, she said, “I find it hard to source clothes that are dramatic yet minimal, fabrics that are beautiful but comfortable. And often I’ve found myself designing and sewing my own garments.”
Another designer who seemed to have the crowd in raptures was Nimish Shah. His high-waisted shorts teamed with a floral off-shoulder top and a rainproof hat was greeted with cheers, and a line of fun, flirty and eminently wearable clothes followed.
What a shift then to the embellished elegance of Bhairavi Jaikishan in the late afternoon! If Nimish’s clothes were “everyday”, Bhairavi’s was occasion-wear with a vengeance. Delicate saris in pastel shades gave way to deeper yellows, pinks and reds, embellished with silver and gold sequins, appliquéd floral motifs and a scattering of more traditional buttis. An interesting aspect of Bhairavi’s collection was the innovative drapes and blouses — pallus looped through corsets for instance — that showed off the ethereal designs to the hilt. Bhairavi said her collection was a celebration of feminine beauty, adding, “I believe that life is beautiful, and that’s why you see these vibrant colours and floral inspirations in my work”. It was easy enough to believe as Bhairavi was cheered on by her mother, senior designer Pallavi Jaiki-shan from the front row.
The audience again prepared for a shift with the designer behind the Mineral label, Priyadars-hini Rao, showcasing her latest in the evening. There was plenty of Mineral’s signature look: Easy-wear, casual separates teamed innovatively to create a layered look. Sheer frocks, coats and tights were worn under floral patterned shirts and tunics and delightful skirts that were worn with wide belts. “I believe that great clothing is what women feel like wearing over and over again. Mineral caters to women who find an evolved, feminine look more rewarding rather than those who struggle to fit into clothing displayed in shop windows,” Rao said, and that’s exactly what her line was about: Clothes that the ordinary yet fashion-conscious woman might want to wear on her way to work, or play.