Guests at Day 2 of the Lakme Fashion Week might be forgiven for thinking there is a crisis of sorts on the Mumbai fashion scene. Whether it was the heavy rains or the fact that it is Anna Hazare — and not fashion — that is making news right now, the main show area of the Grand Hyatt (where LFW is held) was emptier than usual. The general buzz that precedes the fashion event was also missing, especially with the new and emerging designers’ shows, held over the morning and afternoon.
The response to most of the designers was as dreary as the weather, justified perhaps by the rather run of the mill creations that were on display for the most part. But amidst it all, a few designers did manage to shine through.
The morning show saw designers Juilee Bendkhale, Pallavi Goen-ka and Vaishali S. present their collections that were high on structure and low on bling. While shades of blue dominated Juilee’s show, Vaishali managed to generate a fair amount of discussion with her Paithani-meets-Chanderi line.
“I wanted to marry the somberness of Chanderi with the ‘loud’ quality that Paithani has,” said Vaishali, who had styled the models showcasing her line with the traditional Maharashtrian nath (nose ring). Other Maharashtrian elements incorporated in the line included the “navarri” drape.
Next up, it was Amalraj Sengupta and Sanjay Hingu teaming up for a menswear-heavy line in the afternoon. Amalraj’s collection of quilted jackets for men seemed redolent of his “Transfor-mers” themed debut line that first catapulted him into the spotlight. His line of dresses for women however, were a saving grace, mixing black and ochre in a combination of skirts and gowns that had pleated detailing on the shoulders. Sanjay’s collection saw loud checks take centrestage, followed by a quirky collection of jackets with embellished pockets, paisley prints and ethnic motifs.
The late afternoon show — the last before the bigger designers take over the prime evening slots — saw Payal Kapoor present “Rang Birangi”, a gota-bedecked collection of anarkalis, lehengas and sheer saris teamed with gold lycra pants that didn’t exactly set the innovation bar high. To make up for that however, was the next line by Parvesh and Jai. The ramp seemed transformed into an atrium as models bedecked as birds of paradise began their graceful walk. Blouses, cholis, lehengas all came embellished with a glittering peacock motif. In one standout creation, a shrug with peacocks on the shoulders saw a wave of small feathers flutter down the model’s arms. “We’re constantly inspired by the fabrics, textiles and weaving traditions across Ind-ia,” said the designer duo. “That’s essentially what we wanted to bring out in our collection as well.”
With a new infusion of fashion spirit, the stage was set for a rousing evening show, featuring Nachiket Barve, Swapnil Shinde and milliner Little Shilpa. Nachiket’s line predominantly featured sweeping dresses in black, layered with pink, with only a hint or two of embellishment. Shilpa too delivered her trademark shocker of a show, with head pieces mounted on old divers’ eye mas-ks. But it was Swapnil’s futuristic line that captured the audience’s fancy. With jumpsuits, gowns and dresses in shades of canary yellow, beige, black, grey and the occasional white, the creations were lifted out of the ordinary by Swapnil’s use of rolled fabric and Perspex, layered to create swirls and intricate patterns under the bust line, over the hips and shoulders. The designer said, “My inspiration was the speed of sound. This was my attempt to transform sound patterns into clothes.” Swapnil’s collection finally put an end to the creative ennui that had marked Day Two.