Haven of a laureate

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Children enjoying a lazy afternoon on the River Magdalena, (below) childhood home of Gabriel Garcia Marquez is now a museum

The heat hits you like it would in any other town in Colombia. But the word ‘Macondo’ was splattered across walls and shop shutters. There are messages in Spanish written on walls with sketches of Gabriel Garcia Marquez (fondly called Gabo), and for the non-Spanish speaking follower of the Nobel laureate’s works, the only words my group of friends recognised were his name and Macondo.

Aracataca is of particular interest for those who are Marquez fans for not only is it his birthplace and childhood home, but it also features prominently as the basis for the fictional town of Macondo in many of his works, including the masterpiece, One Hundred Years of Solitude. The most fascinating part about being in Aracataca is that it makes you feel a part of the book.
Our group’s first halt was the Gabriel Garcia Marquez museum. Steeped in rich history, the museum today stands where the childhood house of the writer once stood. As we moved from one room to another, an enthusiastic guide told us how this home of his grandparents inspired the writer in Gabo. It was our privilege to be shown around the house by Marquez’s brother, Jaime, and it was no doubt a surreal experience to have him say things like, “Oh that part of the story was exaggerated; this is really what happened.”
Jaime took us to the Gypsy Residence, the only hostel for tourists in the town. The Gypsy Residence is run by Dutchman Tim Buendia. Yes, Buendia. Tim moved to Aracataca and took on the surname of the central family in One Hundred Years of Solitude. After Gabo, Tim is perhaps the most popular person in Aracataca. A walking encyclopedia on the writer, Tim took us to the telegraph office where Gabo’s grandfather once worked.
The church across the road was where the author was baptised, says Tim, as he guided us through a garden where a giant installation tribute to the author once stood. The paramilitary brought it down a few years ago during a conflict.
When we reached the Magdalena River, we saw locals enjoying the day; some even taking a plunge. Soaking in the spots that have featured in his works, we started to saunter towards the river when Tim told us, “Don’t leave anything behind, you can’t trust the people.” A stark reminder that Gabo’s magic realism in Aracataca was ‘magical’ and ‘real’ in equal
measure.