Call of the crafts

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When the West is looking at the East for some sartorial inspiration, how can the desi designers not go the same way too? As the global fashion finds novelty in Indian flavours, the indigenous masters return to their rich roots and revive the long-forgotten arts and handloom textiles. With options like phulkari, shibori, lehariyas, tie-and-dye and Kalamkari ruling the runway, looks like this season will be a shining ode to all things Indian.
Designer Niki Mahajan, who has been reviving Indian crafts since the last three decades, feels that reinvention of tradition to suit the global standards is the key note of her collection. She says, “Traditional crafts like block-printing, embroideries, tie-dye, weaving and even styling is very big this summer. International buyers are incorporating and taking inspiration from our country too. In my recent collection I have used traditional crafts like badla work, block-printing in discharge style and weaving from Madhya Pradesh.”
Designer label A&T also swears by Indian craft, and designer David Abraham of this label adds, “In terms of traditional crafts for spring 2013 we worked with traditional wood block-printing. We designed blocks based on calligraphy, which have been used on cotton voiles and linen. These blocks have been used as all over surface prints as well as borders with embroidered surfaces.”
Designer Nida Mahmood feels Indian textiles and crafts are big this spring even on a global platform. She says, “India as an inspiration is very big internationally, hence its rich heritage becomes pivotal. The first focus is definitely diverse textiles, eco-friendly and organic.”
Similarly, designer Urvashi Kaur’s latest line celebrates Indian charm in global avatar, and she calls it a “hybrid expression for thinking global and acting local.” She mentions, “My designs are global in their construction but defiantly Indian in their sensibility. Wearable, multi-purpose aesthetic and unique interpretation of Indian textiles visibly translates into contemporary ensembles in my collection. Engineered placements of twisted tie-dye evoke the bandhej tradition with ombre over dyes.”
Hyderabad-based designer Gaurang Shah, who creates magic on the runway with Indian weaves, opines, “Indian textiles are extremely environment-friendly and breathe comfort. People are eager to reconnect with their roots and love anything ethnic yet modern. Our jamdani weave technique gives us immense freedom to make the fabric soft and blend different nature-friendly fabrics. We brought a twist to Kanjeevarams and Kalamkari and even developed new intricate patterns using khadi as vibrant floral blooms and foliage themes.”