Colours of Kumbh, patriotism on Day 3

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Actress Gauhar Khan walks the ramp in a Joy Mitra creation on the third day of the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion week

It was the Kumbh Mela, once in 12 years, when Allahabad was under the spotlight for 55 days for playing host to the biggest mela on this planet. Kumbh is much more than the marijuana-smoking naga sadhus and plumes of holy fire. It is an extravaganza of colours and sights that are hypnotic and arresting. Designer Tarun Tahiliani came back from the kaleidoscopic Allahabad with memories of Kumbh and brought them alive on the runway through his collection “Kumbhback”.
Inspired by the sadhus and the whole ambience of Kumbh, Tarun played with his signature wraps mostly in saffron and fiery red, as he sent out models draped in a sea of fabric in the form of skirts, kurtis, jackets, saris and gilets.
He engineered gossamer silks, cashmere wool knits, crepe wool, and silk velvets to create drama on layered coats, bandani sarees, anarkalis, skirts, rabadi jackets and tunics. Embellishments came in the form of rudraksh, which was extensively used in neckpieces, anklets, wrist bands, bangles and tassels hung on the hems of lehengas.
Many designers have experimented with “patriotism” as theme for their collections. Arjun Khanna is best remembered for his menswear with huge military influence and Ritu Beri for her love for the Indian Army.
But what Anju Modi did with her collection “Steel Magnolia,” which paid tribute to men in the army, was beyond spectacular. She whipped up a pleasant mix of saris, kurtas, loose palazzo style lowers in shades of olive green, maroon and khaki teaming them with embellished jackets and Nehru caps. Barbed wire, parrot, elephant and foliage prints were remarkable.
Styling has always been a highlight for Modi’s shows. She used a lot of silk, wool, pashmina, chanderi, Benarasi weaves and tweed in checks, brutal maroon, grey and indigo to fashion interesting silhouettes. Another clincher was the presence of men on the ramp, who appeared in double breasted jackets, trench coats with vintage Army detailing and fitted khadi trousers.
Ankita Shorey, former Miss India closed the show in a yellow chanderi voluminous skirt with a tweed jacket. Another designer whose collection had colonial undertones was Kolkata-based Kiran Uttam Ghosh. She played with androgyny and emphasised on the juxtaposition of extreme femininity with sharp-tailored masculine shapes. Metallic embellishments, sharp shoulder styles with brass and buttonhole detailing, Mandarin collars were employed to establish strong military influence. Raw silks, crisp cottons, fine georgettes and organza were dipped in dull gold, scarlet and wine for saris, dresses with yoke while jersey was used for long dresses and jackets.
Kavita Bhartia’s was a new-age collection. She used laser cuts to create panels and combined them with prints, ombre and unusual embroidery techniques. Asymmetric hems, pleated straight pants, boxy jackets, lasercut tunics, cutwork jackets and long dresses were seen on the ramp. Backswept hair kept the look simple.