The road to Mecca

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Sadia Dehlvi [1]

This week over 20 million Muslims from all across the globe gather in and around Mecca to perform the Haj, a pillar of Islam. Haj is a set of prescribed religious rites that take place on specific dates during Zil Haj, the 12th and last month of the Islamic calendar. Muslims are required to make this pilgrimage at least once in their lifetime, if they are physically and financially able to do so.

Mecca had been a centre of worship long before the advent of Prophet Mohammad. Muslims believe that Adam built the first Kaaba, a symbolic house of Allah on earth, placed under His celestial throne. Eventually, it was rebuilt by Prophet Abraham who laid down the rites of Haj as ordained by Allah. Over centuries, the monotheism of the Abraham and his followers had been corrupted. Idols had been placed in the Kaaba, which was surrounded with pagan rites. Prophet Mohammad, after his conquest of Mecca cleansed the Kaaba of idols, re-established the worship of the one true God.
God commanded Abraham to travel from Palestine to Mecca and leave his second wife Hajrah (or Hagar), along with Ishmael, his first born, in this barren, rocky and uninhabited valley. Abraham returned to his first wife Sarah, leaving Hajrah in God’s trust. When Hajrah’s provisions of dates and water ran out, she became anxious for the thirsty child. In desperation, Hajrah ran seven times between the hills of Safa and Marwah, often gazing at the nearby Kaaba whilst trusting God and invoking His mercy. Suddenly, water sprang from where Ishmael tapped his little feet. This source of water is known as the well of Zam Zam, which miraculously continues to suffice millions of pilgrims. Running between these two hills, a tradition following the footsteps of Hajrah forms part of the Haj rites.
A simple cube-like structure, the Kaaba evokes the most intense of emotions including hope, fear and love of Allah. The Hajr al Aswad, “Black Stone”, that people struggle to kiss is set in one of the corners of the Kaaba. The stone, bought by Archangel Gabriel from paradise, is believed to have turned black by absorbing the sins of those who embrace it. Adam, Ismail and 70 other prophets are buried in the sanctified area. Islamic traditions say that angels constantly circle the Kaaba, bathing all those around it in showers of celestial radiance. Prophet Mohammad said that sins are forgiven by even merely looking at the Kaaba with sincerity.
Haj is about detaching from the luxuries of this world and gaining proximity with God.
Each aspect of the journey teaches something —reminding us that a more difficult journey awaits us after we die. Pilgrims have to remove clothes that can divulge status — the men drape themselves with an ihram, two unstitched pieces of white cloth as a reminder of death. The ihram closely resembles the unstitched shroud that Muslims are wrapped up in before being lowered into their graves. This teaches humility, for no one is rich in front of Allah except in acts of piety. Pilgrims have to be mindful of their behaviour — be kind, generous, courteous, patient and thankful, while cleansing the soul of rancour, lust, greed, animosity and other such diseases of the spiritual heart.
Islam believes that after being sent to earth from the garden of Paradise, Adam and Eve were separated. After years of seeking forgiveness, Allah accepted Adam’s prayers and reunited him with Eve, on the top of a hill near Arafat, called Jabal e Rahmah, Mount of Mercy. Here, the two stood in worship and thanksgiving of their Lord. “Arafat” comes from the root word, “recognition”, for in these plains Adam and Eve recognised each other.
The highlight of Haj is the Yaum ul Wuquf, the Day of Waiting, when pilgrims gather to spend from noon to sunset on the wide desolate plains of Arafat, a defined area in contemplative vigil, praying and reciting the Quran. This gathering symbolises the Judgment Day in the Hereafter, when all souls will wait to be judged by God.
Prophetic traditions affirm this as the most important day of Haj, a time and place when Allah is most generous, forgiving all the sins of those who seek repentance. Haj is a celebration where pilgrims are spiritually purified, given a second chance to truly submit to Allah and stay on righteous path.

— Sadia Dehlvi is a Delhi-based writer and author of Sufism: The Heart of Islam. She can be contacted at sadiafeedback@gmail.com [2]