Tribal women selling their ware at the Bastar haat

Our car is duly geared for a weeklong sojourn as we travel to one of the most scenic routes in Chhattisgarh — from Korba to Jagdalpur, the headquarters of the Bastar district which is home to the world’s longest and unique Dussehra celebrations, and Chitrakote Waterfalls — India’s own Niagara.

We cover the 600 km distance between Korba and Jagdalpur in two days with a night halt in Raipur, 250 km from Korba. However, en route we make several stops to enjoy the diverse natural and cultural landmarks the region offers.
The ancient Shiv Mandir in Pali, bang on the highway, overlooking a lotus-filled lake, is our first stop. After savouring the sculptural magnificence of this ASI protected monument, we proceed to Ratanpur, pay obeisance to its famed Goddess Mahamaya at the ancient temple that is alive with Dussehra festivities and continue onward to Bilaspur before reaching Raipur early evening. We spend a leisurely evening ambling along the Buddha Talab.
After spending the night at Raipur, we hit the highway to Jagdalpur, bypassing Bhillai before entering Dhamtari where we make a short stop to visit its renowned Vindhyavasini Temple. While crossing Kanker, we stop by a Victorian style palace built in 1937 to house the British imperialists in pre-independent India. We enter the ghat section and come upon Panchvati for a bird’s eye-view of Keshkal valley. Kondagaon, one of the nerve centres of Chhattisgarh’s handicraft and pottery, is barely an hour’s drive from Panchvati, and it is our last stop before we hit the highway again to reach Chitrakote.
The Chitrakote, a beautiful horseshoe cataract on the Indravati River, plunges 100 feet down with a deafening roar and creates in its wake jet sprays of misty water. Since the rainy spell has just concluded, we view the falls in all its fury, an avalanche that resembles cold coffee sans aroma!
Following a good night’s rest, we proceed to Kanger Valley National Park, home to a wide species of wild creatures, the special Bastar hill mynah, and the cascading Tirathgarh Waterfalls. We drive along swathes of emerald green rice fields dotted with white egrets, many of which enjoy piggyback rides on well-fed buffaloes.
Less than 10km from Tirathgarh, we come upon Kotumsar Caves, and a guide takes us on a tour of the 300m long structure at the end of which is a naturally formed limestone Shiv ling, a trident and idols of tribal deities.
The Bastar haat, or weekly market, is a ‘colourful’ revelation. While trade in all kinds of edibles, clothing and craft items takes place, cockfights, drinking bouts (of the local liquors — mahua and salfi) and gambling is conducted with much gusto.
As a finale to our trip we witness the procession of the phul rath or flower chariot, pulled by hundreds of tribals along the streets of Jagdalpur, circumambulating the temple of Danteshwari, an integral aspect of Dussehra festivities.
It is well past midnight and the veil of darkness is pierced by the innumerable artificial lights, the streets are choked with the celebrating human ocean. There is a cacophony of sounds from drum beats, music and merry-making as we retire to bed to begin our homeward journey next day.